Path to Karbala

 

Every Year, Shia muslims celebrate the marching to the holy city of Karbala in Iraq. This falls on the 40th day after the martyrdom of Imam Husain in Ashoora and it is called Arbaeen. 

 

People from different countries fly to Iraq to participate in this march; I was one of them. We take taxi from Najaf International Airport and find a hotel. It is difficult to get a good hotel as the standards of the hotels are different from other places in the gulf region. To me, this is a trivia and I try not to pay attention to this specially that this pilgrimage is spiritual in nature. 

 

People normally visit the holy shrine of Imam Ali and visit the old city of Koofa. Once all of this is done, people start marching toward the holy city of Karbala on foot. The distance from the holy shrine of Imam Ali to the Holy Shrine of his son Imam Husain is around 80KM and takes around two to three days on foot. 

 

It is amazing to know that during this journey, Iraqis’ provide free shelter, food and drink to pilgrims absolutely free. There are many other things they offer such as free massages, medical services, charging mobile phones, cobbling services and anything that a pilgrim may require. This project documents some of the aspects of this journey over several years.

Indonesia is the biggest Sunni muslim country in term of population. I have never thought that they have Shia muslims. I saw this group of people standing in front of the Holy Shrine of Imam Ali before entering. They started to recite some prayers and was clear how affectionate and touched by the moment they were. This deeply moved me and I couldn’t leave this scene with taking a photo

Once I entered the Holy Shrine, I have completed my ritual and saw this. A Pilgrim from India is facing toward the Holy Shrine of Imam Ali and reciting some versus of Quran while others pray. Not every Shia has the privilege to visit this holy place every year specially people with less wealth. So they tend to make the most out of his/her visit. His little girl was bored and tried to have some fun with her dad and sat on his shoulder.

It is customary for Shia to visit the Mosque of Koofa. This mosque holds a special place for all the Shia. This is where Imam Ali used to rule and head the government of the islamic nation during his time as a caliphate from 656 till 661 CE. This ancient mosque has some beautiful architect that are irresistible to be captured.

Just outside the Holy mosque of Koofa, there is the shrine of one of Imam Ali’s scholars and close followers, Maytham Al Tammar or Meesum Al Tammar. Imam Ali told him that he will be hanged and killed on the account of being a true follower. He was executed exactly the way Imam Ali told him. People visit his shrine whenever they visit the holy mosque of Koofa as it is very close to it. On the road between the two, I saw those old ladies from Pakistan where one was resting and the other was catching up with her. They were heading to the shrine of Maytham.

Iraq’s wealth is apparently not distributed evenly. There are a lot of poor people that need to secure their day to day food. This is why a lot of children are seen working to support their families. When people finish the rituals of the Holy Shrine of Imam Ali, they embark a journey of approximately 80km toward Karbala on foot. This kid is a transporter, he takes items and delivers them for few Iraqi Dinars. He needs to eat and pay the bills and support his family.

While kids in the developed and wealthier countries play soccer, ride a bike or enjoy their time with what we consider normal children toys, this two Iraqi children are playing with broken tiles that they found and Brough home. Even with this, they still innocently smile as if nothing matters and just living the moment.

While marching to the Holy Shrine of Imam Husain from the city of Najaf, I was resting and sitting on the curbs. Two Iraqi ladies who were not from Najaf were asking a transporter for direction which I assumed to Krabala. Millions of Shia muslims take this journey every year. As a street photographer, I thought of taking an artistic photo from a low angle looking through the bike wheel spokes.

Due to the long distance between the two holy shrines of Imam Ali in Najaf and Imam Husain in Karbala, which takes about two to three days on foot, people need to rest and recharge to continue their path of passion. This Iranian lady was resting and waiting for her group to catch up so that they continue walking to Karbala. A lot of Iranians visit Karbala every year specially that they do not require visa for entering into Iraq.

Any form of rest is welcomed. While marching to the city of Karbala from Najaf, a lot of roads will be blocked due to the huge number of pilgrims marching on the main roads. This is becoming a norm that some occupations will have to adjust their timing. In the heat of the day, people seek shaded areas to rest. This truck driver found the perfect place under his trailer to have a good nap.

While marching to Karbala from Najaf, it is amazing to know that food and basic shelter is provided to pilgrims for free. Iraq’s for the love of Imam Ali and Imam Husain, provide those for free to all nationalities without any reservations. Food are served in plastic containers that are left behind and Iraqi’s collect them later. I have seen piles of plastic containers being burnt which is not the best option, but for Iraq poor economy and illiteracy, burning this kind of waste is a viable option as it cost less.

It is a good opportunity for individual merchants to trade at this time as millions come to Karbala from Najaf on foot. This merchant is selling rings with gems and pilgrims stop by to check his offerings. A lot of bargaining takes place until they reach to the price.

One tend to look at the past to nurture the future. Father is looking ahead representing a look into a vague future for his kid while the kid looks back having no idea how his future will turn up. A lot of people during the pilgrim to Imam Husain from Najaf on foot bring their families including infants. This father had a stroller but his kid wanted a hold as a change.

My Baby Sister

While marching, a lot of people bring their families including infants. This young man in his early twenties was responsible for his baby sister. I am not sure if he is doing so during the season of Arbaeen or for his entire life. It is very common to see families who lost their fathers because of the ISIS crisis in Iraq or the American was on Iraq in the 90’s. In any case, this young man stopped to have some rest and to fetch some food for his baby sister.

Iraqi people suffer from poverty. Despite that, all the food and basic shelter is provided for free for the pilgrims who march from Najaf to Karbala every year. People value the grace and this young man was collecting food crumbs so that people do not step on them. People walk the distance from Najaf to Karbala on foot and often with barefoot as a symbol of love and devotion.

Due to the long distance between the two holy shrines of Imam Ali in Najaf and Imam Husain in Karbala, which takes about two to three days on foot, people need to rest and recharge to continue their path of passion. This Afghani lady was resting and waiting for her group to catch up so that they continue walking to Karbala. A lot of Afghanis visit Karbala every year where they come in groups. The was waiting for the bus driver to finish his nap while others join.

Iraqi’s people suffer from poverty. A lot of them question their future and how it will turn up. While I was participating in marching with millions of pilgrims, I looked at this girls from a distance. She was staring at people coming toward passing her without moving. It caught my attention the sad look on her face and I grabbed my camera to take this photo. I was deeply hurt later while post processing this photo to notice how her foot looked like. She has a foot of an 70 year old lady who had never done a pedicure, only if she new what pedicure is.

In spite of having nothing, poverty, insecurity and economical instability, kids find time to have fun and express joy. In the way to Krabala from Najaf where millions of Shia Muslim walk the distance, Iraqi’s provide basic shelter and food for free. During my visit in 2017, behind those shelters, I saw few kids playing hide and seek and I could not resist talking to them and taking their photos. They hide their pain behind their smiles.

The basic shelters that Iraq’s provide for millions of pilgrims vary in form. Some have constructed air-conditioned shelters while some offer only a place and blankets depending on what’s available. While I was resting, I saw those two Iraqi kids resting and I sat opposite of them and asked them who is more handsome. I thought that I will lighten their mood from being tired and it worked. They burst into laughter each claiming that he is more handsome.

During the Arbaeen, millions of Shia pilgrim walk the distance from Najaf to Karbala on foot. In between, they rest for food and to recharge in the free shelters that are provided by locals. These shelters vary in quality from air-conditioned places to just open area with nothing but a pillow and a blanket. I was resting when I saw those kids falling in deep sleep which was indicating how tired they were.

Slapping on the chest is a form of grieving that Shia muslims perform to display sadness on Imam Husain. This ritual is very popular among them wherever they are. This is accompanied by chantings with poems about how Imam Husain was horrifically killed. A little group of young girls gathered and performed this ritual.

Of course, there is many more stories that are untold. All of the pilgrim have one thing in common; Love of Imam Husain.